Signora Sheila

My husband’s hometown, Sacco, and our summer home are right in the middle of a national park, is one of the most interesting places in Italy. Interesting because it’s rarely ever visited. Interesting because it’s a striking area of lonely, rugged mountains that stretches into the Tyrrhenian Sea, and forming the southern end of the Gulf of Salerno.

And also because the Cilento National Park (in the province of Salerno) is largely a park of hill towns. Most of them are small, averaging about 3000 inhabitants, although my husband’s village with only 400 people is much smaller.

A quaint and quiet area

We love this area, with its lonely villages and quaint people. And every time we go there, I’m struck by the past. Almost like stepping back into another century, reminiscent of the Middle Ages or even Biblical times.

Cilento’s history

Cilento has seen many changes in its history. Starting with settlement by the Greeks, around 600 BC, which caused the inhabitants to flee for safety and build the small hilltop towns.

Then followed by other kingdoms and civilizations, such as the Samnites, the Romans, the Barbarians, and the medieval nobility. They all come and went, but Cilento’s hill towns remain.

Times have changed since the days of Zia Pasquelina, who asked us to write her name because she’d never seen it before. And since Zia Rosa’s first videocassette (post coming soon!), but Cilento remains an enchanting place to visit. Still populated by simple, down-to-earth people, with laid, relaxed lives. The kind many of us dream of living.

Far from touristy areas

So when you come to Italy, consider leaving the tourist areas behind. Head south and up into the Cilento hills.

Where you can visit ancient towns with quaint names like Bellosguardo (Beautiful View), Sacco (Sack), Roccagloriosa (Glory Rock), and Buonabitacolo (Nice Place to Live). Or Roccadàspide (Rock of the Asp), the town where my father-in-law’s family originally came from.

A rich history

We think it’s a wonderful place to just kick back and relax. But if you prefer, there’s plenty to do. From visiting the Greek ruins at Paestum, Agropoli, and Atena Lucana, to the Enotrian ruins in Roscigno and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Certosa Monastery in Padula.

A natural treasure trove

Or if you you’re not interested in ancient ruins, immerse yourself in nature activities, such as mountain hiking or the boat races at Castel San Lorenzo. Or visit the Pertosa’s famous caves of Pertosa, with their spooky, eiry scenes, that look like something out of Dante’s Inferno!

Unique culture

On the cultural side, many monasteries still house ancient libraries. And here and there, we find hidden little treasures. Like the tiny old hermit dwellings in Pittari, or the Poor Toy Museum in Montana Antilia, which displays toys peasants made for their children.

Getting around

The best way to get around this area is by car. Bus and train services are not plentiful and can be sporadic. It can take a few hours to traverse the park by car, but the beautiful scenery and quaint villages make it well worth the time.

Especially since, during the warmer months, you’ll find various sagras or food festivals (sometimes dedicated to the local saints). Festivities that feature all kinds of gastronomic delights such as bread, wine, local pasta dishes, sausages, salamis, cheeses, and chestnuts.

The heart of slow living

Just take your time. This area is perhaps the true heart of slow living.

A place to meander through. To savor, in more ways than one! And if you’re speeding through you’re likely to hit something along the way. This area is open range territory for the Podolica cattle of southern Italy, from which we get the delicious Caciocavallo cheese!

In my husband’s area, we also meet herds of shaggy, free-roaming horses. And quite often shepherds as well, leading flocks of sheep and goats across the roads.

Visiting the park is like stepping into a time machine. But little things, like those shepherds, also show the strange mix of old and new that Italy has become.

For these shepherds trek the paths of their grandfathers, but to the beat of iPods and smartphones!

📷 Images are mine